Identify different types of Leather

You don't need to become a tannery specialist to understand enough about the leather you have to work with in order to be able to successfully clean, protect, and repair it. However, it is essential to have enough knowledge to perform basic identification in order to choose teh appropriate procedure and the appropriate products for the various types. The basic identification can be easily performed; you just need your finger and a few drops of water.

ANILINE, also called Natural, Pure, Naked or Unprotected

These leathers are colored with transparent dye. This means that you will be able to see the actual surface grain and markings. It is as if you are looking through a colored lens. These Leathers have very little or no protective treatments applied to them. The most common thing to do is to spray a wax finish on the surface that gives short term water repellence. The actual way that the leather is made varies from tannery to tannery.

Ways to identify and treat Type A - ANILINE

For care and maintenance purposes you need to know if the surface has been brushed (has a texture like velvet) or not. This is the point at which most people have difficulty distinguishing NUBUCK from ANILINE. Below are the best ways you can identify ANILINE leather:
Note: It is best to perform these tests in a hidden area of the piece.

1. Lightly scratch the surface to see if it leaves a lighter color scratch mark. If it scratches to a lighter color, it is ANILINE. This is not the only test to do because some NUBUCKS will do this also.
2. Wet your finger and lightly rub it into the Leather to see if it darkens. It should darken lightly, but dry invisibly.
3. Apply Mohawk Leather Protector to a hidden area and dry it. If it dries invisibly, it is ANILINE leather.

Generally this is how ANILINE leathers are made:

1. The leather is tanned, then dyed to a crust color.
2. Often the surface is sprayed with additional ANILINE dye stuff to attempt to even out the coloring.
3. As a final step, sometimes a light protective spray (such as wax) is applied to give the leather light resistance from staining.

NUBUCK, also called Chaps, Distressed, Bomber or Suede

These are actually ANILINE leathers on which the surface has been brushed, and have created a texture similar to velvet on leather. Many people confuse these with Suede leather. Suede is the flesh side of a piece of leather; NUBUCK is an "effect" that is done to the grain side making it incredibly soft. The brushing also makes the Leather even more absorbent than ANILINE Leathers. This makes these two leathers sometimes difficult to distinguish from each other. The most difficult to identify are the ones which are in the distressed leathers category or which have waxed finishes applied to them.

NUBUCK leathers can reflect the natural leather grain or have an endless variety of embossed patterns applied to them, and color vividly. This is why this type of leather is also very popular with the fashion industry.

Ways to identify and treat Type N - NUBUCK

Below are the best ways you can identify a NUBUCK leather:
Note: It is best to perform these tests in a hidden area of the piece.

1. The surface should have a texture similar to velvet. You move your hand across the surface and, if it leaves shading traces similar to the effect when you vacuum a carpet in one direction and then in another, it is NUBUCK.
2. Wet your finger and rub it lightly on the surface. The surface will darken and also will dry to a slightly darker shade.
3. For waxed surfaces, rub an area of the leather with a sponge several times. This will remove the wax and let you see if the leather meets test 1 or 2 above.

Generally this is how NUBUCK leathers are made

1. The leather is tanned, and then dyed to a crust color.
2. The surface is then brushed with fine brushes that cut the leather and create a nap or velvet texture.
3. Depending upon the article, stamping of a grain or print effect may be administered.
4. Additional ANILINE dye stuff is applied to the surface to even out or enrich the color.
5. Fixation agents are sprayed on the surface to seal the color and prevent transfer.
6. The leather is tumbled to bring out the NUBUCK effect and maximize softness.

PROTECTED, also called Finished, Semi-Aniline, Pigmented

These leathers have combined the best aspects of a natural product (leather) and have utilized tannery technology to create a product that is more uniform in appearance and color (due to the application of pigments to the surface). It then has a finish applied to the surface that makes the leather more resistant to the effects of heavy use. The pigments and finish applied to the leather do affect the softness and hand somewhat. The more that is needed to be applied - the less soft the leather is. What determines the amount of pigment and finish needed is:

1. The color of the leather - (all light colors require more pigment to cover the surface)
2. The selection of the leather - (lower selection requires more mechanical correction)
3. The desired level of resistance the finish needs - (automotive requires the highest)

PROTECTED leathers are the most common leathers, and for most consumers, the most practical. Unlike ANILINE leathers, you can cover & color the damaged area with pigments. The pigments actually create a film on top of the Leather covering up the actual surface.

Ways to identify and treat Type P - PROTECTED

Below are the best ways you can identify a PROTECTED leather:
Note: It is best to perform these tests in a hidden area of the piece.

1. Lightly scratch the surface to see if it leaves a lighter color scratch mark. If it does not scratch to a lighter color (the color remains the same), it is PROTECTED leather.
2. Use Mohawk Leather Cleaner and clean the leather. The cleaner should stay on top of the finish and should not darken the leather.
3. The surface should have some sort of sheen to it. It is like looking at wood that has a lacquer finish compared to a wipe-on oil treatment.

Generally this is how PROTECTED leathers are made:

1. The leather is tanned, then dyed to a crust color.
2. Depending upon the selection of the hides, the leather is either partially or heavily machined and buffed to even out and hide natural markings.
3. Pigment is applied to the leather either by spraying or roller coating.
4. Depending upon the article, partial or full embossing of grain is done to the surface.
5. Finish is applied to the leather to provide rub resistance and to seal the pigment.
6. Steps are taken to soften the leather using either massaging machines and/or tumbling.